GETTING THE INTERIOR DESIGN RIGHT

There is unquestionable beauty, and essential character to oak-framed homes, with their structures, laid all but bare, and the craftsmanship and skill that has gone into their creation on view for all to see. This, combined with the natural, rustic appeal of the materials used to construct them is almost enough on its own to ensure the interiors are brimming with warmth and style.

And yet, just as with any home, an element of thought needs to be applied for the interior design scheme to pull together in a cohesive and aesthetically pleasing way. And for the healthy air that always being a breath away we must make sure that it has the right circulation so, if you need help contact the Asbestos service around you if you are living around Perth, maybe can getting touch with Asbestos Removal Melbourne Cost.

Despite the charismatic element that an oak frame brings to a home, it can also become a source of head-scratching in terms of how to plan interiors. How much of the structure should you leave exposed, will the structure get in the way of your fitted kitchen and what colour schemes will bring out the best in your timber, for example?

HOW MUCH OF THE FRAME SHOULD I LEAVE EXPOSED?

A simple post and beam oak frame can achieve a more contemporary look while a heavy oak frame can give a more traditional look. Often clients choose a hybrid mixture of an oak and softwood frame, so only using a tree in areas they want it to be exposed, and softwood, where it is hidden behind plasterboard, makes sense.

Consider the wall construction (encapsulation) and how it will be positioned around the frame. The walling system could be incorporated within or inbound of the oak frame at the design stage. This has an impact on the amount of oak on a show. It also has cost implications not only at the beginning of the project – as early as the foundation stage – but also at the end if furniture and kitchens have to be custom made to fit around a prominent oak frame.

HOW SHOULD I LIGHT AN OAK-FRAMED HOME AND CAN I USE LIGHTING TO MAKE A FEATURE OF THE FRAME?

Uplighters can be used to accentuate and highlight the main timbers (for example, the trusses), and it is possible to hide the light fittings. Double-directional lights look great when viewed externally at night.

For vaulted ceilings, a chandelier can add drama and will look great because of the extra height.

HOW CAN YOU DESIGN A FITTED KITCHEN AROUND AN OAK FRAME?

Primarily when it comes to creating beautiful interiors that work seamlessly with the frame, it’s all down to planning and early consideration. Giving as much consideration to the internal layout and furnishings as possible from an early stage can vastly improve a home. Ideally, the frame will form the character of the house, and incorporating particular interior features can mean the design of the structure itself may have to be altered in turn — hence the need for early planning.

Creating the perfect setting for a kitchen within an oak frame, or any room starts by determining the most favourable position and arrangement of the post and beam-style structure. From here, the needs and wishes of the self-builder then drive a concept design to ensure as much of their ‘wishlist’ as possible can efficiently work following the frame.

In the kitchen, having an oak frame does not mean that you must forego wall units, curved worktops or other features. Instead, the positioning of braces and posts are considered as early as possible to favour the self-builders dream kitchen. To make the most out of the oak frame and the kitchen itself, it’s vital the end vision is considered from the offset.

Although many clients love the idea of full- height face glazing this is not always practical in a kitchen as units are best placed against a wall rather than glass. Alternatively, picture windows, high-level windows, or even rooflights can be used to allow extra light in and provide outward views.

HOW SHOULD YOU APPROACH WINDOW DRESSINGS WHEN IT COMES TO LARGE GLAZED EXPANSES?

Dressing a mostly glazed gable or feature floor-to-ceiling windows can be quite complicated. I have seen some beautiful solutions though, including shutters (which can be made to fit a specific shape and are visually less fussy than curtains), or a combination of blinds (for the long straight glass) and curtains (to tackle an apex). The alternative is to leave the window undressed and celebrate the architectural form of the room — oak and glass are a fabulous partnership, and a window dressing can obscure or detract from this.

Early planning means there may be allowances you can make to accommodate window dressing to give the property a more considered impact. For example, on my project, we left new side returns next to our big windows so the curtains can be pushed back fully and not overlap the glass. We had poles made to fit and installed during the build so wall finishes could be taken around them.

WILL AN OAK FRAME NEED A FINISH

Oak comes to us in a ‘rough-sawn’ state — a fine band-sawn finish. Once erected it will have marks from the timber yard, big stains from transportation, carpenters’ marks from the workshop, and footprints from frame raising!

There’s no need to ‘treat’ the oak internally or externally as it is very durable in its natural state. There are, of course, different aesthetics available. Sandblasting is the most popular choice. It lifts the grain slightly and gives a consistent, uniform honey colour. Sandblasting can be heavy or light.

Oak can also be planed to a smooth finish. However, planing green oak will mean that over time the grain will rise again as the timber seasons. Another option, although time-consuming and messy, is to treat the frame with oxalic acid, which lifts any surface marks off the oak.

Penetrating oils can be used, but hardening oil, wax or impermeable finishes must not, as the moisture content of the timber is so high and will result in moulds. These treatments, if required, are best applied at a much later date once the frame has done the bulk of its drying.

HOW CAN I AVOID TIMBER OVERLOAD — I DON’T WANT THE LOOK TO BE ‘TOO MUCH’!

If you’re incorporating oak frame, most people prefer the ‘primary structure’ only to remain on view (the significant sections of posts and beams without the rafters and joists, too.) The contrasting textures of a rustic oak frame with natural wood joineries such as doors and skirtings can work well, but don’t overdo the wood. Ask your designer to model the interior before you make final decisions.

HOW CAN I USE MY OAK FRAME TO CREATE ZONES IN AN OPEN PLAN SPACE?

Posts are ideal for creating delineated spaces without the need for walls. Using an architectural designer who understands the design principles of oak framing will give you the best possible interior because the oak frame will form an honest and integral part of the house. Oak frame in a house designed for conventional construction nearly always looks forced.

HOW DO I ENSURE A DOUBLE-HEIGHT SPACE DOES NOT FEEL CAVERNOUS?

Getting the scale of your furniture right in a double-height space can be tricky, especially if you are trying to work with items from your previous home. Areas with double-height sections of face glazing allow you to be bold with your choice of colour and pattern, with the oak literally ‘framing’ your statement piece. The 10-seater oak table (above) with chunky legs creates a strong sense of balance with the expanse above. In this instance, oak has been chosen to mirror the frame. That said, contrasting colours work well too. Always consider investing in new furniture or an interior designer to take advantage of this unique space.

In the above example, the scale and size of the double-height space have been carefully considered and positioned to give a sense of height and drama, but the intersection of the oak beam above the table provides an understanding of a defined dining area — this creates intimacy even within the ample space.

WHAT COLOUR SCHEMES WORK WELL IN OAK FRAME INTERIORS?

Oak frames are pretty resilient when it comes to colour — so don’t be afraid to try something bold, even if it’s just a single wall. The only colours to treat with caution are those with an orange or yellow tone as this seems to emphasise the natural orange hue of the oak and in combination, it can feel like a 1970s chalet!

Most neutrals (creams, stones, greys, dark) suit oak framing well. I have always felt harsh, or trade whites are a little brash next to the organic texture of the wood — they can work well if it’s a deliberate consideration of a modern interior scheme.

For those who feel brave: inky blues, dark reds, heritage greens and strong greys all thrive next to oak (and there is evidence that old oak frames would have used a similar interior palette). Look for paint ranges with a slightly more muted colour – like those offered by the main heritage brands – rather than anything too primary.

The key to holding a scheme together across a project is to decide on a small range of colours at the beginning that can be repeated throughout the house and have a relationship with each other. In my own oak frame house, we have one main cream/white with a grey colour for highlights and a dark blue with a brighter green (above). We have used these colours throughout (for the kitchen units, ceilings, doors, and so on) and somehow that helps all the rooms flow and gives a consistency. I’m slowly adding a few areas of wallpaper and panelling, but will stick to the same colour palette. We have painted out any wood that isn’t oak so that nothing competes with the frame. We used eco paints by Edward Bulmer as it fits our sustainability aims for the house.

And remember — it’s only painted so you can always change it if you fancy!